Vermiponics - Aquaponics Without Fish

[GaryD]

Hi,

I've just posted an article on my blog called Vermiponics - Aquaponics Without Fish. You can see it here.

I'd be interested in your thoughts about Vermiponics.

Gary

[grassroots]

It sounds interesting, I am still setting up my aquaponics with the duckweed. When I get it sorted out I might give the vermiponics a go.

[Dufflight]

Does sound interesting. As long as the worms break down everything then it would be the same as the work they do with old roots in the media. The volume may differ. I still like the idea of a neutral fish as tank keepers eg goldfish or catfish, silvers, Koi. I see myself later running more non eating fish in the large tank and using smaller tanks for eating fish.

[GaryD]

Hi,

The people who impress me most in aquaponics are those, like Jim Joyner, who are willing to try new ideas and to forge new frontiers.

While not every idea is necessarily a good one.....nothing ventured; nothing gained.

Duff......have you got a schematic of your 55,000 litre system somewhere? A body of water like that offers huge potential for small-scale food production......without the usual limitations and risk potential of much smaller ones.

Gary

[Dufflight]

I do need to draw a map of the system. I tend to forget gb's and when re-plumbing I have to look around and count. 11 gb ish and some half drum. 6000ltrs ish of media.

[GaryD]

Hi,

For those of you who followed APHQ member morning's interesting ideas on the use of composting worms (instead of fish) to facilitate the production of nutrients for growing plants......take a look here.

Inspired by morning's (aka Jim Joyner) ideas, Bentley Christie has built his own mini-vermiponics system.

Gary

[Sue B]

Hi
I have read with interest all I could find about vermiponics and thank people like Jim Joyner and Bently Christie for the information they so willingly share.
I have been experimenting with vermiponics using an outdoor system of 2 bath tubs of pea gravel and a 650 litre water tank pumping 15 minutes on, 45 minutes off 24/7.
I have had a worm farm for many years and have begun by suspending a handful of vermicompost in a stocking in the water which creates worm tea as the system cycles. I have also set up a new worm farm over the water tank and am emptying a watering can full of water through it every second day which drips into the water tank.This will no doubt have more impact as the worm farm matures.
I am in Darwin, NorthernTerritory and have some tropical climatic challenges which will be interesting to explore with my new system. The system is about 2 months old now and I have been pleased with its progress however the tomatoes are flowering but not setting fruit. I have added maxicrop to help overcome any deficiencies but as yet there has been no change.
I would appreciate any suggestions for improvement and hope to post more information as my system progresses.

[GaryD]

Hi Sue,

Glad to see that it's working out for you. Keep us posted on your progress.

Gary

[Sue B]

Hi
I sought advise from a horticulturalist friend who suggested I add slow release fertilizer for roses (specifically for blooms) to help with the setting of tomatoes. This is high in phosphorus and potassium. I initially sprinkled some around the tomatoes and scratched it down to water level but when nothing had happened after a few weeks I put some into pieces of stocking tied into sacks, about golf ball size, and buried them in the gravel. Within a few more weeks my plants were heavy with fruit!! I know this is not actually being a purist as far as 'natural' fertilizer goes but it was that or nothing. Does anyone know of a more natural source of these nutrients? I have since removed the small sacks and fruit is continuing to set but I guess the original nutrients are still in the system.

Another problem I'm finding is that the roots are so thick in the gravel that the grow beds are tending to flood because the water can't drain away quickly enough.
I'm using stand pipes and have drilled more holes but the flow back into the tank is too slow. I wonder whether it would be better to use expanded clay balls as the roots would be easier to remove from spent plants and/or if the introduction of worms into the grow beds would mean they would eat the debris?

[GaryD]

Hi,

As you've discovered, when it comes to growing food, it's best not to get hung up about means and ends......so, if your slow release rose food is putting tomatoes on your table, all power to you. Just be careful that it doesn't contain other things (like cadmium or other heavy metals) which can be found in some packaged fertilisers.

Another problem I'm finding is that the roots are so thick in the gravel that the grow beds are tending to flood because the water can't drain away quickly enough. I'm using stand pipes and have drilled more holes but the flow back into the tank is too slow. I wonder whether it would be better to use expanded clay balls as the roots would be easier to remove from spent plants and/or if the introduction of worms into the grow beds would mean they would eat the debris?

One answer is to extend the drain cycle. Another option is to grow your tomatoes in something that contains their roots more effectively.....and cost effectively.....like a blue barrel cut in half cross ways. (see photo of cut down barrels).

You only need a couple of good tomato plants to meet the need for tomatoes for an average family.....so coming up with a dedicated growing system for them is a good thing. They tend to dominate grow beds and, in my view, this relatively expensive growing space is better suited to smaller plants.

It is much easier to remove root residues from expanded clay than gravel. We find that many roots can be removed by simply drawing your hand (with your fingers spread) through the clay pebbles....before plunging your hand into a bucket full of water to dislodge the roots from your fingers.


Gary